Here I am modelling a half kira, wonju (blouse) and toego (open jacket-like garment) for only the second time. I bought them in the Bhutanese capital Thimphu near the end of our trekking trip to the country in April 2003. The other photo of me in it at our hotel in Paro has been viewed a number of times on Geocities so I thought I would revive it. The fabric is very comfortable being silk and cotton but I haven't tried to move extensively in it. A majority of Bhutanese women wear it daily since it was introduced as the national dress in the 17th century to give the Bhutanese a distinctive identity. It and the male equivalent, the gho, is required wear for Bhutanese at all formal occasions and visits to government and religious buildings. Smaller versions form the school uniforms.
HPIM0114
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Monday, May 28, 2007
Thursday, January 11, 2007
Off to NZ in two weeks
We are going to take our toddler overseas! At least it's only a three hour plane ride but we have elected to fly to Nelson on the same day to get to Pat's aunt and uncle's place. His Canberra-based parents have a New Zealand car garaged there which we can borrow. Jessica and Basil have grandchildren so they have camping and baby gear we can borrow.
We are going to try camping in our new 3 person Eureka tent. We tried it out in the garden and Ryan lay down between us - very cute. Now we just have to work out how to manage his naps whilst sightseeing. Probably the whale watching that I missed out on last time due to bad weather will not be toddler-friendly.
Any kid-friendly New Zealand attraction suggestions welcome.
I fixed the meta tag in xml problem tonight - forgot the end tag. Feedmap still doesn't work that well.
We are going to try camping in our new 3 person Eureka tent. We tried it out in the garden and Ryan lay down between us - very cute. Now we just have to work out how to manage his naps whilst sightseeing. Probably the whale watching that I missed out on last time due to bad weather will not be toddler-friendly.
Any kid-friendly New Zealand attraction suggestions welcome.
I fixed the meta tag in xml problem tonight - forgot the end tag. Feedmap still doesn't work that well.
Monday, November 15, 2004
Firenze
View over Florence from Fiesole
Pat's company gave its workers the day between Armistice Day and the weekend off so we took ourselves to Italy. We left at about 11 (the usual slow start) and had made it to the Rapallo exit of the motorway at lunchtime. We had camped here in 2000 and visited Portofino. After a small picnic, eaten overlooking the rocky coast and snowy mountains behind we did a drive to Portofino then hopped back on the motorway. Unfortunately we ended up in Florence's peak hour traffic in the rain and after the long drive all Pat wanted to do was get out of there. So we ended up in Finesole in the hills behind Florence and found a room. The room and the restaurant we ate at were rather overpriced. This was a product of high tourist traffic no doubt because the town had a great view over Florence, Roman ruins and an interesting history.
We toyed with the idea of getting the bus in to Florence but eventually caved in to taking the car. This turned out to be a quite expensive option as we parked in the main railway station carpark but easier for getting somewhere to stay.
The walk around in the streets was enjoyable although there seemed to be building or restoration works going on all over including the Baptistry. First stop was the Palazzo Vecchio, containing some ingenious Medici architecture and beautifully decorated state rooms. We walked past the Uffizi queue down past the Ponte Vecchio and had lunch near the Palazzo Pitti. Then we were resigned to a long wait in the Uffizi gallery queue - the main attraction we hadn't seen last time we were here. An hour and a half later of sitting and standing in the cold stone walkway we were in! I was disappointed by the paintings. I guess they were amazingly priceless but the repetition of Annuciation, Crucifixion and Madonna e Bambino left me cold. Botticelli's Birth of Venus was a consolation and the few Rubens and Rembrandts. I enjoyed the Amsterdam and Vienna galleries more.
Back at the station we were trying to find accommodation and were approached by a man just outside the hotel booking service who offered a nice Bed and Breakfast Pensione for only 5€ more than we paid for the poor place the previous night. We took it and the nearby free parking as well.
We had a lovely meal in a Trattoria recommended by the Pensione owner near the main market in town. We had antipasti and veal and steak with porcini mushrooms.
We drove back home the next day through Livorno and past Pisa, stopping in Genoa to walk along the seafront and have a hotdog.
Wednesday, November 03, 2004
Long weekend in Provence
We spent the weekend amongst ripening olives and autumn coloured vinyards of the Alpilles region of Provence. It was only a few hours drive by motorway and we were able to visit Le Baux de Provence on the first afternoon even though we only left home at 11am. We found a pleasant hotel in Maussane nearby. Since it was raining the following morning we went to Arles which was fairly close and did Nimes on the public holiday Monday (All Saints Day).
Roman arena, Arles
Tuesday, August 17, 2004
Castlenaud
The very popular Castlenaud: a restored Dordogne Chateau containing the Museum of War of the Middle Ages, hence the reconstructed war machine sticking up over the ramparts on the left of picture.
Monday, August 16, 2004
French prehistory
Here is a large dolmen near Limogne-en-Quercy south of the Lot River, which runs roughly parallel to the Dordogne. This is one of three we visited near the town.
August summer holiday
We have just returned from two weeks exploring more of France. We opted to drive a short distance rather than fly anywhere or attempt anything further afield with Pat's two weeks off work. This time we went north via Barcelonette through the Southern Alps then across through the Rhone valley to the Massif Central and beyond to the Perigord and the Dordogne Valley.
Here is a typical Dordogne valley scene with farms and chateau in the distance.
We camped which was exciting with the number of thunderstorms that kept appearing. Luckily they cooled things down to below 30 degrees. Camping freed our money for good eating. The Perigord is renown for good hearty food including foie gras and the rest of the goose or duck, truffles, potatoes and garlic soup. More highlights soon...
Here is a typical Dordogne valley scene with farms and chateau in the distance.
We camped which was exciting with the number of thunderstorms that kept appearing. Luckily they cooled things down to below 30 degrees. Camping freed our money for good eating. The Perigord is renown for good hearty food including foie gras and the rest of the goose or duck, truffles, potatoes and garlic soup. More highlights soon...
Tuesday, July 20, 2004
Auvergne Trip
Pat's company closed down for French National Day (Bastille Day) and the two days between it and the weekend. We have just come back from the Auvergne area (le Massif Central)- about 500kms from home.
14/7 We parted from the A7 motorway towards Le Puy-en-Velay. The first campsite was in Gaudet, a very small village on a river, just near the start of the Loire. We walked to the only hotel restaurant and had a decent menu. We were persuaded to have marinated strawberries and cream even though we were both full, probably the best bit!
15/7 Explored the Loire valley and the Livradois-Forez area. Went into Le Puy-en-Velay.
Above Le Puy-en-Velay
The cathedral has Oriental and Byzantine influences and was built in the 12th century. We walked around the old religious centre and up to the huge red painted Notre Dame statue.
Drove through La Chaise-Dieu with another pilgrimage church. Even small villages on the St Jacques de Campostelle (Portugal) routes have large cathedrals! Campsite on small Plan d'eau (reservoir) amongst pine trees near Champagnac-le-Vieux. No dinner as Pat was still recovering from a virus that gave him a fever and aching muscles.
16/7 Tried to find a geocache in the forest off a mountain bike trail from St-Germain-l'Herm, near a cascade but had no luck after searching for 20 minutes. Also managed a short walk to a dolmen in a field near Issoire. Campsite above Chambon-sur-Lac. We found the nearby St Nectaire area, an old spa holiday town, to be a bit dead so ended up in a pizzeria by the lake. We tried Forme d'Auvergne and cantal on our pizzas. However, the tourist office in St Nectaire had earlier been helpful with brochures in English.
17/7 Interesting visit to a chateau at Cordes. Bussed up the top of the Puy de Dome after visiting the Parc de Volcans exposition on, you guessed it, volcanoes (and man, since men have been here thousands of years). Campsite above Mont Dore after taking the cable car up to near the summit of Puy de Sancy (1885m). Lovely dinner in town at a traditional Auvergnate restaurant. Lots of local cheese featured. For entree, I had a feuillette with Bleu d'Avergne then a steak with wine sauce, Pat had a porc and cabbage dish "pottée". We finished off with fromage blanc and tarte and creme brulée. The restaurant was entertained by a traditionally dressed woman with a medieval instrument, singing and playing.
I was bitten all over by tiny midges as I got undressed outside the tent in the dark. And I really mean all over - between my legs, bottom, small of my back, arms, feet, next to my eyes - ugh! I only discovered they were there when I shone the torch inside the tent and started to squash the ones I could see.
18/7 Rain began during the morning. Pouring as we left so we set off south, past Lac Pavin, a volcanic lake. From Condat we encoutered a "fun run" going up the hill in the pouring rain! Stopped in Egliseneuve d'Entraigues for the Maison de Fomage and found a market fête going on despite the rain. Stopped in St Flour for lunch and a walk around. The Tour de France had been there a couple of days before. This perched town looks better from a distance as close up it's a bit colourless. After a short stint on a free motorway we drove down the N106 through some lovely countryside and ended up in Nimes held up for twenty minutes by the end of the Tour de France road closures. Made it back home at 8pm.
Spending some time now annointing my midge spots with antihistamine cream. Also Pat has passed the feverish virus onto me so not feeling too chipper today (Tuesday 20/7).
14/7 We parted from the A7 motorway towards Le Puy-en-Velay. The first campsite was in Gaudet, a very small village on a river, just near the start of the Loire. We walked to the only hotel restaurant and had a decent menu. We were persuaded to have marinated strawberries and cream even though we were both full, probably the best bit!
15/7 Explored the Loire valley and the Livradois-Forez area. Went into Le Puy-en-Velay.
Above Le Puy-en-Velay
The cathedral has Oriental and Byzantine influences and was built in the 12th century. We walked around the old religious centre and up to the huge red painted Notre Dame statue.
Drove through La Chaise-Dieu with another pilgrimage church. Even small villages on the St Jacques de Campostelle (Portugal) routes have large cathedrals! Campsite on small Plan d'eau (reservoir) amongst pine trees near Champagnac-le-Vieux. No dinner as Pat was still recovering from a virus that gave him a fever and aching muscles.
16/7 Tried to find a geocache in the forest off a mountain bike trail from St-Germain-l'Herm, near a cascade but had no luck after searching for 20 minutes. Also managed a short walk to a dolmen in a field near Issoire. Campsite above Chambon-sur-Lac. We found the nearby St Nectaire area, an old spa holiday town, to be a bit dead so ended up in a pizzeria by the lake. We tried Forme d'Auvergne and cantal on our pizzas. However, the tourist office in St Nectaire had earlier been helpful with brochures in English.
17/7 Interesting visit to a chateau at Cordes. Bussed up the top of the Puy de Dome after visiting the Parc de Volcans exposition on, you guessed it, volcanoes (and man, since men have been here thousands of years). Campsite above Mont Dore after taking the cable car up to near the summit of Puy de Sancy (1885m). Lovely dinner in town at a traditional Auvergnate restaurant. Lots of local cheese featured. For entree, I had a feuillette with Bleu d'Avergne then a steak with wine sauce, Pat had a porc and cabbage dish "pottée". We finished off with fromage blanc and tarte and creme brulée. The restaurant was entertained by a traditionally dressed woman with a medieval instrument, singing and playing.
I was bitten all over by tiny midges as I got undressed outside the tent in the dark. And I really mean all over - between my legs, bottom, small of my back, arms, feet, next to my eyes - ugh! I only discovered they were there when I shone the torch inside the tent and started to squash the ones I could see.
18/7 Rain began during the morning. Pouring as we left so we set off south, past Lac Pavin, a volcanic lake. From Condat we encoutered a "fun run" going up the hill in the pouring rain! Stopped in Egliseneuve d'Entraigues for the Maison de Fomage and found a market fête going on despite the rain. Stopped in St Flour for lunch and a walk around. The Tour de France had been there a couple of days before. This perched town looks better from a distance as close up it's a bit colourless. After a short stint on a free motorway we drove down the N106 through some lovely countryside and ended up in Nimes held up for twenty minutes by the end of the Tour de France road closures. Made it back home at 8pm.
Spending some time now annointing my midge spots with antihistamine cream. Also Pat has passed the feverish virus onto me so not feeling too chipper today (Tuesday 20/7).
Saturday, July 10, 2004
Camping at Gorges du Verdon
Le Tour is on with lots of Aussies riding so good to watch.
I have been trying to organise our mailing addresses as the Post forwarding service runs out in August. It's not 100% anyway - we had problems with ING suspending our accounts.
I have just been back to the Gorges du Verdon for the third time for a camping trip with Judy, Ann, Kathy, Alison and Stephan and 9 assorted-aged children. Unfortunately we got a long series of thunderstorms come through which prevented much activity. Missed out on rafting and hiking but we managed a walk along the gorge road and up to the chapel on the roc in Castellane. We all swam in Lac Saint Croix before the drive home.
We climbed up there - with young children so not as hard as it might look. We also ate a simple meal at the Hotel in the bottom of the picture.
I have been trying to organise our mailing addresses as the Post forwarding service runs out in August. It's not 100% anyway - we had problems with ING suspending our accounts.
I have just been back to the Gorges du Verdon for the third time for a camping trip with Judy, Ann, Kathy, Alison and Stephan and 9 assorted-aged children. Unfortunately we got a long series of thunderstorms come through which prevented much activity. Missed out on rafting and hiking but we managed a walk along the gorge road and up to the chapel on the roc in Castellane. We all swam in Lac Saint Croix before the drive home.
We climbed up there - with young children so not as hard as it might look. We also ate a simple meal at the Hotel in the bottom of the picture.
Saturday, July 03, 2004
Photos & Mic, Jodie & Chloe's visit
Yay, j'ai photo blog, grace de Hello et accueil gratuit à Blogger!
We had 6 good days with Mic, Jodie and Chloe. They arrived, a bit unexpectedly while I was still cleaning the house, on Friday and left Thursday morning to drive back to Lausanne.
We managed to go to Eze, Cassis (a long drive), Ile St Marguerite and the beach at Antibes. We also tried out the swimming pool (see pic) and shopped the Geant Hypermarche.
House feels a bit empty after a nearly-two-year-old's been around demanding toys, books, songs etc
We had 6 good days with Mic, Jodie and Chloe. They arrived, a bit unexpectedly while I was still cleaning the house, on Friday and left Thursday morning to drive back to Lausanne.
We managed to go to Eze, Cassis (a long drive), Ile St Marguerite and the beach at Antibes. We also tried out the swimming pool (see pic) and shopped the Geant Hypermarche.
House feels a bit empty after a nearly-two-year-old's been around demanding toys, books, songs etc
Wednesday, June 09, 2004
Corsican diary
The following is my travel diary for two weeks in Corsica:
15/5/2004 Calvi. Got off the Mega ferry in the late afternoon. Found campground then walked around town. Walked back to a restaurant (uphill) in the vieille ville (U Campellu)
16/5 4h30 walk to near the Cirque du Bonifato, stopped at stone-walled hut with young Brit man missing person notice attached. Many small pink cyclamen flowers.
Drive down west coast to Galeria. Camped then dinner on terrace overlooking the bay and Tour Genoise (first of many) opposite.
17/5 Icecream before 5h walk to Girolato near the Sala (?) nature reserve. Beer overlooking the beach, watching the unloading of a grader from barge. Notables: heat, red and yellow growths and small green snake. Drive narrow winding road to Porto, including interesting encounter with bus. Camp then dinner at La Tour Genoise over the port.
18/5/2004 Porto pastry on the beach. 0h30 walk to Calanches de Piana (natural donjon). Drive to Cargese to look for caches. Found the first 10km south on the coast road – somewhere in a nicely carved granite boat commemorating the landing of the first Greeks at that point. Couldn’t find the microcache as I kept getting blackberry prickles stuck in me. Back in the town attempted the other multicache, this time with success. Several steps took us to the two churches, down to the port for a diversionary beer then up to the Tour Genoise above, via the long winding route as I had omitted to write down a photo clue as to which path to take at a junction. A local asked us if we had been to the point for the belle vue but we had to say next time because it was getting late and we were tired.
Drove to Vico, inland from Sagone where we had to have dinner. There was a campground in Vico but not much else. It was deserted apart from one Swiss girl and her dog, the man mowing the grass and the Doberman on the roof of the reception building. In Sagone we found a hotel on the beach open and had salads and ailles de raie avec capers, which were a bit soggy, perhaps they were frozen.
19/5 Drove through forest and mountains with the first couchon sauvage we saw to the Col de Verghio. Bought bread and had lunch by the dam lake at Calacuccia. Couldn’t find a campground there and we had no time for a walk so drove to Corte. Got money, map, walked around town and anthropological museum and had beer to recover! Drove back to the Col du Verghio and took demi-pension at hotel there. Short evening walk up to the col on the GR and MM routes amongst the cows. OK evening meal of soup, ravioli (bocchio and mint), small piece of cheese or pastry. Bed quite uncomfortable.
20/5 Off relatively early for what was to be a long circuit walk. 6h30 walk to Lac du Nino. Walked around the lake and down another path with quite a few other people but we overshot our unmarked path back to the col, not reading the map or using the GPS to full advantage. We asked a couple where they were headed and they turned out to be English and offered us a lift back to our car. Jean and Dave were from Leeds and were staying in a villa near Lama (north of Corte) for a week.
Drove north of Corte to a campground near Mont d’Oro at Tatone on the railway. Nice showers followed by pizza in the campground deserted restaurant. One was crème fraiche, ham, mushroom, cheese – like carbonara on a pizza.
21/5 1h30 walk to the Cascade d’Anglais. Beautiful clear water over many gray rocks. Drove to Ajaccio. Had lunch in restaurant on the port, petites fritures and moules frittes. Short walk around town past the Maison Bonaparte. Went to Carrefour supermarket for supplies and dinner.
Drove towards Filitosa and found campground at Calzola. Lovely quiet rustic camp under cork oaks, inspected be several curious cats. Dinner of roast chicken and potato salad.
22/5 Visit to the Site Prehistorique de Filitosa – statue menhirs, settlement and quarry (no dolmen). Small museum and gallery didn’t add much..
Had lunch after passing through Propriano and buying bread and tarts. On the beach at Campomoro there was a wedding going on and a fish farm in the bay. Some spear fishermen were unloading when we arrived. Pat had a short swim but it was pretty cold so he wasn’t in long.
Drove through Sartene to Bonifacio. 2h walk around clifftop Haut Ville. Camp in poor crowded site. First few drops of rain. Walked back to Haut Ville past the port to dinner in deserted restaurant – bad value and no ambience except we were outside. Kept awake at night by fighting and police turning up nearby and Gipsy Kings playing at full volume afterwards.
23/5 Drove around the coast past a tortoise on the road (Santa Guila beach had been recommended but it was crowded and had a boring resort feel. Some bits done up, right on the beach but car park a rocky mud puddle in waiting.) Drove through Porto Vecchio (lots of shops and no parking) back into the mountains. We had lunch in the mist near Col d’Ospedale, missing the beautiful lake which we could have sat next to. Found camp near Zonza. Crowded but we found a spot by ourselves right at the top. Threatening rain but I did washing and still only a few drops. Dinner in nice restaurant in town (Auberge de Sanglier). Croustillant (Pat) charcuterie (Ro) and Civet (daube) de sanglier + excellent tarte aux pommes and chestnut gateau.
24/5 6h walk return from the Col de Bavella to the Refuge de Paliri and the U Colomleddu (Trou de Bombe), natural rock arch. Notable: thousands of pine processional caterpillars, mostly squashed, pretty blue daisy like flowers, two black beetles rolling dung ball, views of rock spires and the sea.
Returned to same campground and dinner in another restaurant in Zonza. Fieulleté (Pat), salade gibieres de canard (Ro), Daube de sanglier avec pruneaux (Pat), Legumes de Mediterranee (Ro), fidone (Gateau Corse), chataigne mousse with green leaf preserve (Ro)
25/5 5h30 walk around the Aiguilles de Bavella from the col again. Very rocky, chains in parts of the GR alpine route. Interesting changes in scenery and vegetation. Fighter jets overhead again. Tiring walk uphill at the end.
Drove to next town Quenza and found an Auberge. Managed by a chef so set menu very good. Cannelloni de brocchui (mint), stuffed quail + braised vegetables, cheese or dessert assortment. Did not sleep (heat, period, sore hip, coffee) but the shower was good and managed to see some tennis on TV. Older English couples aplenty here!
26/5 Drove through the middle of the island over uncomfortably winding roads: more pigs, some lovely woodlands but also burnt, deforested hillsides. Finally had lunch by the road then found natural river campsite north of Corte. Train line went around it and the river through.
Drove to a pizza place for dinner. TV on with champions league final but we didn’t stay.
27/5 After quick supermarket shop drove back to the southwest of Corte to the Gorge de la Restonica. At the end of the road got a remarkably good spot right next to the track which took us up to two lakes, Melo and Castanella (still almost all ice), via ladders and through snow (skied on boots down although Pat had chosen to wear sneakers because the walk was supposed to be short!). Sustained our only injuries, a big bruise on calf and a gashed hand. Lots of German families with children.
Back to campground for showers then returned to Corte. Checked email at a cyber pub then had beer and meal in the old town. Food at recommended U Museu cheap and unremarkable.
28/5 Left campground at 10am after paying blind man owner. Drove through La Castagniccia area, including Morosaglia (where patriot leader of briefly independent Corsica Palio was born), chestnut woods with many domestic animals (pigs, goats, cows, horses and birds. Found cache at Col (Bocca di San Antonio). Lunch of toasted panini and beer at La Porta near a baroque church with contrasting bell tower. Ended up on the coast again. Towards Bastia the single lane boring road held more and more traffic so we turned inland again, over some hills to the north coast.
Camp by a river at San Fiorenzu. Walk around town and bastion. Dinner in busy place with new waiter anxious to practise his English resulting in some mistunderstandings. Spoke to Norwegian with French Canadien wife after laughing at the waiter’s efforts. Good steak (Ro) and moules frites (Pat), followed by icecream profiteroles.
29/5 Drove around Cap Corse with stops at Nonza (odd little schist tower) and Centuri (lunch on the hot rocky beach then walked in the small village fishing port). Through Bastia without stopping and San Fiorenzu without joy at the ATM. Along the coast past Ile Rousse to Calvi we loked for a nice campground but failing to find one we returned to the same campground in Calvi. Shopped at the supermarket for more Muscat and terrine that we had liked (but none of the Emperor with figues which was so good, sweet and tasty).
Dinner on the marina, which was full of yachts from Antibes for a 40th anniversary club race and Aussie Rules, a superyacht. We guessed who it could belong to among famous Australians: Greg Norman, perhaps. I later confirmed this online – a $70 million dollar largest aluminium hulled go anywhere pleasure cruiser with fantastic number of toys for fishing, diving and boating. Food was a bit disappointing for a 20€ menu, overcooked and strongsmelling seafood with overly salty sauces.
30/5 Rest day in campground. Looked at the beach on the way to get bread. Plenty of people on it but only one in the water. Yachts had all gone to be replaced by an influx of Germans including one family who had to put their mansion tent up less than a metre from ours while we were in it – grr!
Dinner in behind port, steak (Pat) stodgy seafood spaghetti (Ro). Bought red coral earrings but no T-shirt.
31/5 Packed up and drove to Calenzana (start/end of GR20). 1h30 walk up to first col and back with quite a few daywalkers and fresh GR walkers. Drove back through a couple of other La Balagne perched towns. Not much activity for a fete day so we headed back to Calvi for lunch at an Italian style place: lasagne au brocciu (local fresh cheese and mint) (Ro) and Pizza Reine (Pat).
Had to while away the time until the ferry so drove up to the Notre Dame and stayed there in a rather wild wind for a few hours. Back in town found a 24h petrol pump that took a while to negotiate.
Had a drink on the marina, pastis and tea, then panini in the car before queuing for the ferry.
15/5/2004 Calvi. Got off the Mega ferry in the late afternoon. Found campground then walked around town. Walked back to a restaurant (uphill) in the vieille ville (U Campellu)
16/5 4h30 walk to near the Cirque du Bonifato, stopped at stone-walled hut with young Brit man missing person notice attached. Many small pink cyclamen flowers.
Drive down west coast to Galeria. Camped then dinner on terrace overlooking the bay and Tour Genoise (first of many) opposite.
17/5 Icecream before 5h walk to Girolato near the Sala (?) nature reserve. Beer overlooking the beach, watching the unloading of a grader from barge. Notables: heat, red and yellow growths and small green snake. Drive narrow winding road to Porto, including interesting encounter with bus. Camp then dinner at La Tour Genoise over the port.
18/5/2004 Porto pastry on the beach. 0h30 walk to Calanches de Piana (natural donjon). Drive to Cargese to look for caches. Found the first 10km south on the coast road – somewhere in a nicely carved granite boat commemorating the landing of the first Greeks at that point. Couldn’t find the microcache as I kept getting blackberry prickles stuck in me. Back in the town attempted the other multicache, this time with success. Several steps took us to the two churches, down to the port for a diversionary beer then up to the Tour Genoise above, via the long winding route as I had omitted to write down a photo clue as to which path to take at a junction. A local asked us if we had been to the point for the belle vue but we had to say next time because it was getting late and we were tired.
Drove to Vico, inland from Sagone where we had to have dinner. There was a campground in Vico but not much else. It was deserted apart from one Swiss girl and her dog, the man mowing the grass and the Doberman on the roof of the reception building. In Sagone we found a hotel on the beach open and had salads and ailles de raie avec capers, which were a bit soggy, perhaps they were frozen.
19/5 Drove through forest and mountains with the first couchon sauvage we saw to the Col de Verghio. Bought bread and had lunch by the dam lake at Calacuccia. Couldn’t find a campground there and we had no time for a walk so drove to Corte. Got money, map, walked around town and anthropological museum and had beer to recover! Drove back to the Col du Verghio and took demi-pension at hotel there. Short evening walk up to the col on the GR and MM routes amongst the cows. OK evening meal of soup, ravioli (bocchio and mint), small piece of cheese or pastry. Bed quite uncomfortable.
20/5 Off relatively early for what was to be a long circuit walk. 6h30 walk to Lac du Nino. Walked around the lake and down another path with quite a few other people but we overshot our unmarked path back to the col, not reading the map or using the GPS to full advantage. We asked a couple where they were headed and they turned out to be English and offered us a lift back to our car. Jean and Dave were from Leeds and were staying in a villa near Lama (north of Corte) for a week.
Drove north of Corte to a campground near Mont d’Oro at Tatone on the railway. Nice showers followed by pizza in the campground deserted restaurant. One was crème fraiche, ham, mushroom, cheese – like carbonara on a pizza.
21/5 1h30 walk to the Cascade d’Anglais. Beautiful clear water over many gray rocks. Drove to Ajaccio. Had lunch in restaurant on the port, petites fritures and moules frittes. Short walk around town past the Maison Bonaparte. Went to Carrefour supermarket for supplies and dinner.
Drove towards Filitosa and found campground at Calzola. Lovely quiet rustic camp under cork oaks, inspected be several curious cats. Dinner of roast chicken and potato salad.
22/5 Visit to the Site Prehistorique de Filitosa – statue menhirs, settlement and quarry (no dolmen). Small museum and gallery didn’t add much..
Had lunch after passing through Propriano and buying bread and tarts. On the beach at Campomoro there was a wedding going on and a fish farm in the bay. Some spear fishermen were unloading when we arrived. Pat had a short swim but it was pretty cold so he wasn’t in long.
Drove through Sartene to Bonifacio. 2h walk around clifftop Haut Ville. Camp in poor crowded site. First few drops of rain. Walked back to Haut Ville past the port to dinner in deserted restaurant – bad value and no ambience except we were outside. Kept awake at night by fighting and police turning up nearby and Gipsy Kings playing at full volume afterwards.
23/5 Drove around the coast past a tortoise on the road (Santa Guila beach had been recommended but it was crowded and had a boring resort feel. Some bits done up, right on the beach but car park a rocky mud puddle in waiting.) Drove through Porto Vecchio (lots of shops and no parking) back into the mountains. We had lunch in the mist near Col d’Ospedale, missing the beautiful lake which we could have sat next to. Found camp near Zonza. Crowded but we found a spot by ourselves right at the top. Threatening rain but I did washing and still only a few drops. Dinner in nice restaurant in town (Auberge de Sanglier). Croustillant (Pat) charcuterie (Ro) and Civet (daube) de sanglier + excellent tarte aux pommes and chestnut gateau.
24/5 6h walk return from the Col de Bavella to the Refuge de Paliri and the U Colomleddu (Trou de Bombe), natural rock arch. Notable: thousands of pine processional caterpillars, mostly squashed, pretty blue daisy like flowers, two black beetles rolling dung ball, views of rock spires and the sea.
Returned to same campground and dinner in another restaurant in Zonza. Fieulleté (Pat), salade gibieres de canard (Ro), Daube de sanglier avec pruneaux (Pat), Legumes de Mediterranee (Ro), fidone (Gateau Corse), chataigne mousse with green leaf preserve (Ro)
25/5 5h30 walk around the Aiguilles de Bavella from the col again. Very rocky, chains in parts of the GR alpine route. Interesting changes in scenery and vegetation. Fighter jets overhead again. Tiring walk uphill at the end.
Drove to next town Quenza and found an Auberge. Managed by a chef so set menu very good. Cannelloni de brocchui (mint), stuffed quail + braised vegetables, cheese or dessert assortment. Did not sleep (heat, period, sore hip, coffee) but the shower was good and managed to see some tennis on TV. Older English couples aplenty here!
26/5 Drove through the middle of the island over uncomfortably winding roads: more pigs, some lovely woodlands but also burnt, deforested hillsides. Finally had lunch by the road then found natural river campsite north of Corte. Train line went around it and the river through.
Drove to a pizza place for dinner. TV on with champions league final but we didn’t stay.
27/5 After quick supermarket shop drove back to the southwest of Corte to the Gorge de la Restonica. At the end of the road got a remarkably good spot right next to the track which took us up to two lakes, Melo and Castanella (still almost all ice), via ladders and through snow (skied on boots down although Pat had chosen to wear sneakers because the walk was supposed to be short!). Sustained our only injuries, a big bruise on calf and a gashed hand. Lots of German families with children.
Back to campground for showers then returned to Corte. Checked email at a cyber pub then had beer and meal in the old town. Food at recommended U Museu cheap and unremarkable.
28/5 Left campground at 10am after paying blind man owner. Drove through La Castagniccia area, including Morosaglia (where patriot leader of briefly independent Corsica Palio was born), chestnut woods with many domestic animals (pigs, goats, cows, horses and birds. Found cache at Col (Bocca di San Antonio). Lunch of toasted panini and beer at La Porta near a baroque church with contrasting bell tower. Ended up on the coast again. Towards Bastia the single lane boring road held more and more traffic so we turned inland again, over some hills to the north coast.
Camp by a river at San Fiorenzu. Walk around town and bastion. Dinner in busy place with new waiter anxious to practise his English resulting in some mistunderstandings. Spoke to Norwegian with French Canadien wife after laughing at the waiter’s efforts. Good steak (Ro) and moules frites (Pat), followed by icecream profiteroles.
29/5 Drove around Cap Corse with stops at Nonza (odd little schist tower) and Centuri (lunch on the hot rocky beach then walked in the small village fishing port). Through Bastia without stopping and San Fiorenzu without joy at the ATM. Along the coast past Ile Rousse to Calvi we loked for a nice campground but failing to find one we returned to the same campground in Calvi. Shopped at the supermarket for more Muscat and terrine that we had liked (but none of the Emperor with figues which was so good, sweet and tasty).
Dinner on the marina, which was full of yachts from Antibes for a 40th anniversary club race and Aussie Rules, a superyacht. We guessed who it could belong to among famous Australians: Greg Norman, perhaps. I later confirmed this online – a $70 million dollar largest aluminium hulled go anywhere pleasure cruiser with fantastic number of toys for fishing, diving and boating. Food was a bit disappointing for a 20€ menu, overcooked and strongsmelling seafood with overly salty sauces.
30/5 Rest day in campground. Looked at the beach on the way to get bread. Plenty of people on it but only one in the water. Yachts had all gone to be replaced by an influx of Germans including one family who had to put their mansion tent up less than a metre from ours while we were in it – grr!
Dinner in behind port, steak (Pat) stodgy seafood spaghetti (Ro). Bought red coral earrings but no T-shirt.
31/5 Packed up and drove to Calenzana (start/end of GR20). 1h30 walk up to first col and back with quite a few daywalkers and fresh GR walkers. Drove back through a couple of other La Balagne perched towns. Not much activity for a fete day so we headed back to Calvi for lunch at an Italian style place: lasagne au brocciu (local fresh cheese and mint) (Ro) and Pizza Reine (Pat).
Had to while away the time until the ferry so drove up to the Notre Dame and stayed there in a rather wild wind for a few hours. Back in town found a 24h petrol pump that took a while to negotiate.
Had a drink on the marina, pastis and tea, then panini in the car before queuing for the ferry.
Thursday, April 15, 2004
We're back in the week after Easter. The long weekend (only Monday) we spent in the Vaucluse region of Provence.
Saturday we drove to Vaison-la-Romaine, found a campground in nearby St Marcellin then drove into the town and walked around. First up the hill to the ruined chateau cum fort, through the old medieval town then across the Roman pont to the opposite side of the river Ouveze. The town had a massive flood in 1992 so there has been rebuilding but the extensive Roman ruins are still there. We didn't pay to go in but walked around and looked through the fence at the impressive amphitheatre.
We missed out on a meal in a rather rustic looking fixed-menu restaurant in the medieval part so opted to try Morroccan for a change. Entrees of cumin-spiced tomato, eggplant and zucchini and a pancake (brique) with chicken and sweet sauce were followed by couscous (of course) with beef and prunes for Pat and meatballs for me, again in a tomato sauce.
The first night in the tent was very cold, even after taking a short walk along the riverbed.
The following day dawned clear (although we woke up after 9.30!) so we drove up Mont Ventoux after a stop in Malucene for bread and a drink. Ventoux is the highest mountain in Provence (2010m) with its own ecosystem. True to its name it was blowing a cold wind up there and snow dusted the trees higher up, above the road closure. A short walk away from the road gave us a slightly better view of the ski slopes (now bare) and the various towers on the summit. The view off the mountain was a bit hazy. After a picnic lunch on the way down we drove through the fields back around to Vaison-la-Romaine via another old village, Seguret. There we admired the little paved alleys and the strangely woven plane trees over the carpark.
We found another campground in a different direction from Vaison and finally found one of the Michelin-guide-recommended places to eat. Dinner was a three course menu in a busy upstairs room next to a tiled shaft down to the floor below and a fake staircase up the wall to an old door in the mezzanine. I started witha goats' cheese tart and Pat had a rabbit(?) terrine ,which was a bit bland and complete with bones. My main was sauteed porc in a mustard cream sauce and Pat's was baby goat (chevreau); chocolate gateau and fraise et cafe glace for dessert.
After a warmer nights rest and a shower we left to drive home via a few more stops. We found an interesting Chateau in Suze-la-Rousse. The wind was now blowing freezing cold. Before lunch we found the trogolodyte village of Barry near Bollene and walked around its many buildings and looked at the view of the Rhone. Back-tracking a little we found a picnic table in some woodland and had a rather chilly meal. Last stop was Orange where we found the amazing Roman relics of a triumphal arch and huge theatre. The theatre had a very interesting audio tour although the wind whistling through didn't make one want to hang around. The remaining marbles collected from it were in the museum opposite. There was a very nice oil painting of the port of Nice in there too. Pat tried unsuccessfully to drive me past the Chateauneuf des Papes winery (with a tiled roof he claimed to remember) but only succeeded in finding the chateau in the town of the same name.
We headed back on the motorway (after we found it and after we negotiated the hazard of filling up the car and getting back into a traffic jam or two).
All in all an enjoyable trip.
Saturday we drove to Vaison-la-Romaine, found a campground in nearby St Marcellin then drove into the town and walked around. First up the hill to the ruined chateau cum fort, through the old medieval town then across the Roman pont to the opposite side of the river Ouveze. The town had a massive flood in 1992 so there has been rebuilding but the extensive Roman ruins are still there. We didn't pay to go in but walked around and looked through the fence at the impressive amphitheatre.
We missed out on a meal in a rather rustic looking fixed-menu restaurant in the medieval part so opted to try Morroccan for a change. Entrees of cumin-spiced tomato, eggplant and zucchini and a pancake (brique) with chicken and sweet sauce were followed by couscous (of course) with beef and prunes for Pat and meatballs for me, again in a tomato sauce.
The first night in the tent was very cold, even after taking a short walk along the riverbed.
The following day dawned clear (although we woke up after 9.30!) so we drove up Mont Ventoux after a stop in Malucene for bread and a drink. Ventoux is the highest mountain in Provence (2010m) with its own ecosystem. True to its name it was blowing a cold wind up there and snow dusted the trees higher up, above the road closure. A short walk away from the road gave us a slightly better view of the ski slopes (now bare) and the various towers on the summit. The view off the mountain was a bit hazy. After a picnic lunch on the way down we drove through the fields back around to Vaison-la-Romaine via another old village, Seguret. There we admired the little paved alleys and the strangely woven plane trees over the carpark.
We found another campground in a different direction from Vaison and finally found one of the Michelin-guide-recommended places to eat. Dinner was a three course menu in a busy upstairs room next to a tiled shaft down to the floor below and a fake staircase up the wall to an old door in the mezzanine. I started witha goats' cheese tart and Pat had a rabbit(?) terrine ,which was a bit bland and complete with bones. My main was sauteed porc in a mustard cream sauce and Pat's was baby goat (chevreau); chocolate gateau and fraise et cafe glace for dessert.
After a warmer nights rest and a shower we left to drive home via a few more stops. We found an interesting Chateau in Suze-la-Rousse. The wind was now blowing freezing cold. Before lunch we found the trogolodyte village of Barry near Bollene and walked around its many buildings and looked at the view of the Rhone. Back-tracking a little we found a picnic table in some woodland and had a rather chilly meal. Last stop was Orange where we found the amazing Roman relics of a triumphal arch and huge theatre. The theatre had a very interesting audio tour although the wind whistling through didn't make one want to hang around. The remaining marbles collected from it were in the museum opposite. There was a very nice oil painting of the port of Nice in there too. Pat tried unsuccessfully to drive me past the Chateauneuf des Papes winery (with a tiled roof he claimed to remember) but only succeeded in finding the chateau in the town of the same name.
We headed back on the motorway (after we found it and after we negotiated the hazard of filling up the car and getting back into a traffic jam or two).
All in all an enjoyable trip.
Sunday, March 14, 2004
We finally did a long bike ride today with Norm. We went down the hill cross-country to the Park de Vaugrenier then along to the Cap d'Antibes to Juan-le-Pins and back home, 42 km in all. Wow, what a sore bum! Apparently if I do this more often I will become accustomed to it (what process is going on to make your pelvic bones more used to pressure?).
Anna rang to say she'll book a train ticket from Paris and arrive sometime next week.
Bad news: Spanish bombings, Israeli bombings ...
Anna rang to say she'll book a train ticket from Paris and arrive sometime next week.
Bad news: Spanish bombings, Israeli bombings ...
Sunday, March 07, 2004
So I just thought I could note where I've been link-wise recently. Today I looked up the "sorry ever after" lyric to find out what 74-75 refers to. The song, by Connells, doesn't seem to mean much except it mentions the years 1974-1975.
Also looked at the Eurosport website and it is slightly better than the newspapers in presenting a more balanced diet of sport than the major male ones but not much better. Flicking though our channels I have found that the Motors TV (which used to feature moslty obscure Australian motor sport) has been replaced by a Belgian French channel RTBF.
Also been looking at photography sites - have to remember to ask Sam or Susan again for her website.
Yesterday we ventured out to Menton (the long weekend in Haut Vaucluse had gone by the by) after the end of the lemon festival. We had a short walk in the old town centre and cemetery with Russian princes and Webb Ellis (we didn't find his grave but an unstable section was closed) before retiring for a seafood lunch by the sea.
Also looked at the Eurosport website and it is slightly better than the newspapers in presenting a more balanced diet of sport than the major male ones but not much better. Flicking though our channels I have found that the Motors TV (which used to feature moslty obscure Australian motor sport) has been replaced by a Belgian French channel RTBF.
Also been looking at photography sites - have to remember to ask Sam or Susan again for her website.
Yesterday we ventured out to Menton (the long weekend in Haut Vaucluse had gone by the by) after the end of the lemon festival. We had a short walk in the old town centre and cemetery with Russian princes and Webb Ellis (we didn't find his grave but an unstable section was closed) before retiring for a seafood lunch by the sea.
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